Best Beginner Violin Finger Placement Buying Guide Reviews
To assist early student violinists, some violin teachers use strips of tape across the fingerboard to mark the best beginner violin finger placement. Then once beginners know where exactly to put their fingers, the tape is removed.
You can buy tape from violin retailers just for the purpose. However you can quickly do this yourself using insulation tape or paint masking tape (Id probably not go for full length fingerboard wrap on types). The usual placement is 36, 68, 83 and sometimes 110 mm from the nut. A couple of tips are to make sure the violin is tuned before you start, then just lightly place the first piece across and test the sound on each of the strings, G-D-A-E in the first position for the corresponding notes A-E-B-F#. See the table below for the four tapes:To get more click here about best kids violin reviews
Best Beginner Violin finger placement
Green = pinky (first finger) 36mm.
Blue = second finger 68mm, this floats between 2nd and 3rd position
Pink = Third finger 83mm
Yellow = Fourth Finger 110mm
The tape is used to mark a regular 1st best beginner violin finger placement (such as the note B on the A string), high 2nd finger (e.g. C# on the A string), third finger (e.g. the note D on the A string), and 4th finger (e.g. the note E on the A string — sounds the same as open E).
Rather than use precise measurements to place fingering tape, it’s best to place the tape by ear (after placing each piece of tape, press your finger down on the tape and listen carefully to determine whether or not the note sounds in tune). This is due to the fact that variations in the width and shape of each person’s finger may affect where each tape should be placed. It’s also important to remember that although violin finger placement tape can provide beginners with an approximate location of where they should place their fingers, playing in tune requires the violinist to listen carefully to make sure they are playing the correct pitch. Fingering tape should be used as a temporary aid, not as a long term solution.To read more click here about best violin review.
How to determine the value of your violin?
Well. First thing, look at the label through the f-hole. Now, take note that it’s very easy to fake, or to replace a label in a violin. So, don’t give to much importance to what’s written on the label.
However. Old 18th-century labels were hand written. So, if you find that you have a machine-written label, your violin is not an 18th-century one.
In more recent times, there’s been the advent of mass produced violins that are factory made. Especially in the 20th century, after 1920 or so, it was mandatory to add on the label the “made in” copy, that specifies the country where the violin was made.To learn more about best electric violin reviews.
How to tune a violin
You can tune a violin with a stand alone tuner like the one below
But there are also other ways to tune a violin…
Knowing how to tune a violin should be important to all violin players. Violins are tuned in perfect fifths (a musical interval spanning seven semitones or five staff positions in written notation). Each string on a violin is a perfect fifth apart. From the left hand side of the fingerboard (assuming you are looking toward the neck from the chin rest on a normally set up violin), the strings are arranged in the following order: G, D, A, E. Beginners may find it easier to use an electronic tuner to help tune up but it is strongly advisable to be able to tune by ear as well. Learning to tune a violin by ear helps familiarize you with the sound of the instrument and the way an instrument tuned in fifths sounds. You become used to the sound and will be able to tell when a string is out of tune quickly if you learn by ear – if you rely solely on electronic tuners it will likely take you longer to notice when you are not in tune. Learning to tune a violin by ear will help your pitch. Nonetheless, you still should have an electronic tuner as a reference for use when there is no other musician or instrument to provide a reference note.
It is generally easier to tune a violin if it has fine tuners (tuners on the tailpiece). You can use the pegs to get coarsely in tune and then use the fine tuners to narrow in on the correct pitch. Use the pegs to tune up just below the note and then use the fine tuners to bring the note into pitch. Always tune up to a note rather than tuning down to the note. If you tune too high you may run the risk of breaking a string, so it is always better to start with the string a bit slack. Some violins only have fine tuners on the “E” string (the one that is most easily broken), and while some classical purists may not like the idea, I recommend you have fine tuners on all strings.
If you are tuning up a new instrument or using new strings, you will likely find that the strings stretch over time and initially it may be a bit more difficult to keep the instrument in tune and you will need to retune frequently. Don’t worry, as the strings settle your instrument will stay in tune longer.
Generally, people use an “A” note as a reference (440Hz). You can use an “A” from another musician (piano, guitar, another violin, or any other instrument). To tune by ear from a reference “A” tone, while playing the “D” and “A” strings together, tune the “D” string up until you hear the sound of perfect fifth (you will get used to this over time). It sometimes helps to use your fourth finger on the lower string (“D” in this case) as it will correspond to the note on the adjacent string (“A” in this case). Once you have your “A” and “D” strings in tune, use “D” as your reference to bring the “G” string into tune, finally, use your “A” once again to bring the “E” string into tune.
I do recommend that you purchase an electronic tuner for those times when you need to tune a violin and you are not tuning to another player. They are quite inexpensive and come in either stand alone type models or clip on models. I personally prefer the clip on models as they are not influenced as strongly by noise around you.The stand alone tuners use a small microphone to pick up the sound and if you are in a room where there is a lot of noise or a lot of other people tuning, a stand alone tuner may have difficulty picking up your note. A clip on tuner uses the resonance in the instrument itself by picking up the vibrations through the instrument directly and can be used in a noisy environment.
You can tune a violin with a clip on tuner
Best Beginner Violin Tuning
Best beginner violin should know the violin tuning
- Each of the violin strings is tuned to what is called ‘perfect fiths’. Or 5 whole notes up from the lower string. Starting with G (just below middle C), then D, A, E. Hear the sounds of each note (click on the notes below)
- You should always tune from below the note to prevent strings from breaking.
- Use the fine tuners as whenever possible. When they become wound down, loosen them right the way up, use the peg to tighten the string to just below the note, and use the fine tuners to tune the note up.
- Tune the A string first, followed by D, G then E strings as this is how orchestral players tune their violins.
- Many beginning violinists find it helpful to use a digital tuner to tune their violin, and some models detect and display when the note being tuned matches the desired pitch.To read more click here about how to play violin.
Best Beginner Violin Care and Maintenance
Its essential the you should follow some kind of best beginner violin maintenance routine.The following quick tips should ensure that you both sound the best you can and your best beginner violin will stay in great condition for many years to come.
- Tighten your violin bow before playing by gently turning the tension screw. Avoid making the bow hairs too tight, the gap between the bow and hair should be approximately the width of a pencil. Or the little finger of an average adult.It’s essential you should follow some kind of best beginner violin maintenance routine
- If you handle your best beginner violin bow, avoid touching the bow hairs as the oils on your skin reduce the friction on the bow against the strings.
- Routinely apply a small amount of rosin on your bow each time before you play. Do this by holding the rosin in your left hand, place the bow hairs flat on the rosin and slowly move the bow back and forth on the rosin. Rosin provides the bow hair with friction in order to produce a sound when the bow is pulled across the violin strings.
- If its a new bow you should repeat this process around 20 times, this should then allow you to simply add a maintenance coating each time you play, as per the above step.
- Insufficient rosin on your bow will make the bow hair slide across the strings and produce very little or no sound. Excess rosin will produce a rough scratchy sound. It will also coat the strings and stick to the varnish of the violin.
- After playing the violin, you should clean it with a soft, clean, lint-free cloth to remove any rosin build-up on the left on the strings.
- Avoid cleaning the violin with domestic polishes, water or sap as this could damage the varnish or seep into small cracks in the varnish and affect the acoustics. If you need to clean the varnish use a high quality wax – sparingly.
- When not using your violin and bow place them in your case. This will reduce the risk of damage and keep it nice and clean.
- If you use a shoulder rest or shoulder pad, always remove it from your violin before putting your violin back in its case. If you don’t you could weaken the rest fixings or even damage the body of the violin, most cases are a snug fit.
- Loosen the hair on your bow before putting it back in the case. Otherwise you will warp the bow and reduce the natural arch.
- Do not store your violin where its either too hot or too cold.
- If you live in a dry climate, you may want to consider purchasing/ using a humidifier made for violins, as this can cause cracking or the seams of your violin to open.
- If your violin ever has cracks or the seams begin to open, take it to a music store, violin maker or luthier.
- Never use commercial glue to repair your violin. Instrument makers use a special hide glue for violin seams and repairs.
- If you need to replace the strings you should ideally take it to a shop. However if you feel sufficiently competent make sure you don’t remove all the strings at once. As this can sometimes (especially on older violins) make the sound post fall from position.
- If your violin has been away in its case for some time. Its good practice to inspect and clean the bow every now and again as they can be susceptible to mites which will feed on the organic bow hair.To get more click here about best kids violin reviews
Once you get into a routine of doing this violin maintenance shouldn’t end up being a chore just second nature.To get more click here about cremona sv 225
Follow The Best Beginner Violin Shaped Objects
Now…let’s say you want to buy a violin for starting up. That’s the most common case. Where should you shoot?
There’s a common saying, that states that those super low cost violins are not really violins. They’re the so-called VSO: Violin Shaped Objects. Not violins, but generic objects that look like violins.
Even if you don’t consider yourself a violin player, you should avoid best beginner violin shaped objects.
Consider that playing the violin can be a totally engaging experience…assuming you can produce at least some sound.
But it can also be totally frustrating. When all you get is buzzes, and screeches, and when you fail to be able to pick a single string with your bow and you end up touching a second one most of the time. That gets depressing real fast. So, if you ì’re starting out, and pick a VSO, you just run the risk of ending up totally frustrated, and abandon the thing altogether.To learn more about Best violin shoulder rest
Best beginner violin size also everyone violin sizes:
The sizing of the violin is 4/4 or full size, this measured from the bottom of the body to the top, and is approximately 14″. Violins are are made in fractional sizes for children and smaller people: 3/4, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/10, 1/16, 1/32 and even 1/64-sized. These are not actual fractions of the full sized: the 3/4 is approximately 13″, the 2/4 12″ and so on.
Approximate guide to the sizing based on full length of the violin, from Base to top of scroll. An alternative way is to measure the length between the chin (when looking left and arm stretched out to the left) and the line of the wrist.
Really it’s excellent for beginners, available in Full, 3/4, 1/2 and 1/4 size. Full and 3/4 violins are even available in the red, a black or purple finish That is perfect for making learning a little more enjoyment and make you stand out from the crowd.To learn more about Best Violin Accessories
The construction of the violin is usually spruce top or soundboard, maple ribs (side) and back and ebony neck. The other fittings are the bridge, a sound-post, four strings, and various fittings, and usually a chinrest (which is an 19th century edition). Not much has changed in the construction since the early violins regarding the shape. Moden fittings such as wound strings, plastic tailpieces have made the instrument more affordable.To get more click here about Cecilio CVN 500
Front view of the bridge.
The Bridge is a engineered cut of wood that transmits the vibration of the strings to the main body of the instrument. Held in place by only the tension of the strings pushing towards the body of the violin. Its curve holds each of the strings at its proper height from the fingerboard in an arc, allowing each to be played individually by the bow. The sound post (aka soul post), fits precisely inside the instrument between the back and top, below the treble foot of the bridge, which acts as both a support for the bridge and a transmitter of vibration energy to the body, and an essential part of the overall violins sound.To read more click here about Best student violin review.
Upper, Lower and Waist Bout give the hourglass shape to the violin.
The Chinrest is a more recent addition to the violin. It was invented by a man named Louis Sophr in the early 19th century, basically to allow freer left hand movement and to aid controlling the violin more with the chin. Widely used today and is really a standard peice of kit supplied with modern violins. However some of todays purist violinists (Perlman etc) still refuse to use them. To get more click here about Cecilio 4/4 CVN-200 reviews
Upper, Lower and Waist Bout give the hourglass shape to the violin.
The neck is glues to the underside of the fingerboard and is usually constructed of maple. This allows the inside of the thumb and thumb endge of the palm to smoothly move up and down the direction of the violin fingerboard.
F-Holes are the sound holes on the violin, allowing the sound to be projected or amplified from the violin.
Fine-tuners allow the violin strings to be adjusted more easily than by moving the pegs.
Fingerboard runs up along the body and neck with the strings. Its usually constructed of ebony, due to it being hard and smooth. Its purpose is to allow the player to stop the string at the exact position for the desired note.
Peg-box holds the strings in place onto the scroll end. They also adjust the tension of the strings. They are fixed in by being a tapered shape to the hole.
Tailpiece holds the strings in place at the bottom of the violin and is fixed by a clamp to the underside.
The scroll is a decorative end to the neck and is the shape of a rolled up spiral, or sometimes head of an animal. It can also be used as judge of a luthiers skill.To get more click here about Crescent 4/4 Full Size reviews
Is it Hard to Learn the best Beginner Violin?
What do you think? Is it hard to learn the violin? Well, the first thing you have to understand about the violin is that it is still just a musical instrument. You don’t have to be an exceptionally gifted concerto violinist to be able to play it. If your child wants to play the violin, he doesn’t have to be some four-year-old musical genius to be able to understand how to play this instrument.
So, is it hard to learn the violin? If you have an interest in playing the violin, and the drive to learn how to actually play it, then this musical avenue is definitely open to you. Practicing the violin at home is easy; you just have to give yourself time to learn all of the basic skills in handling and playing the instrument itself.
Practicing regularly is essential to learning any instrument. This is true for the violin as well. Some people love practicing so much that they are able to master the basics in a relatively short period of time. Others choose to take a longer time to master the first few lessons. It really doesn’t matter how long it takes you to master your own scales, and violin lessons, as long as you are working at your own pace and enjoying yourself. This especially applies to folks who want to learn the violin from the comfort of their own home.
About two decades ago, people didn’t have much choice when it came to their musical education. If a person wanted to learn how to play the violin, he only had two choices: hire a personal mentor or sign up for a local music class. I’m not saying that these are not top choices, but if a person doesn’t have any time to attend formal classes, I believe that he should still be able to enjoy playing his instrument. It is a good thing that there are master classes online nowadays.
You can sign up for these classes (and often some lessons are offered for free before you have to pay for the remainder of the lessons), and learn at your own pace. The idea of learning at home is actually quite ideal for musicians, because they don’t have to deal with the stress of driving to a music school every few days. The only downside I see is the fact that you won’t be able to interact with other students just like yourself, who have more or less the same skill level. But then again, not everyone enjoys the idea of having other people hear their practice sessions, so I guess this isn’t really a big problem for all beginners.
If you are particularly wary of other students and advanced practitioners, I suggest that you sign up for online violin classes first, and then enroll in a music class later if you have the time and resources to do so. This way, the learning curve associated with the first few lessons in music class wonít be so steep for you, and you won’t have any trouble adjusting to the teacher or the lessons. It also helps if you can purchase one or two good books on playing the violin. Do not buy sheet music until you are able to play with ease. You need to build your technique first; technique is the most important part of your music education.